| Official Luthiers Forum! http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/ |
|
| Saddle depth http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=9529 |
Page 1 of 1 |
| Author: | Colin S [ Mon Nov 27, 2006 6:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Every operation I'm doing on this current build, I'm questioning if I'm doing it this way because that's the best, or just because that's how I've always done it. (should ask this of myself everytime). So, I've always seated my saddles 5mm into the bridge (about 3/16"). What do other people do, and of course why? Colin |
|
| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Mon Nov 27, 2006 6:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Collin mine are .250" or 6.35mm deep but they are steel string and my bridge is .380" or 9.5 mm deep |
|
| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Mon Nov 27, 2006 6:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
in my ideal world i like my slot depth to be no more than 1/2 the thickness of the bridge and at least 1/2 the height of the saddle. |
|
| Author: | Lars Rasmussen [ Mon Nov 27, 2006 8:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
[QUOTE=Hesh1956] Colin I do what Michael P. does. I am looking for 2/3 of the tree , so-to-speak, to be below ground. 1/4" saddle slot shooting for 1/8" saddle above the bridge I noticed that a commercial bridge (Stew-Mac) has a 6/32" saddle slot depth. [/QUOTE] Thats exactly what i shoot for too, so I usually end up around 7mm. |
|
| Author: | John How [ Mon Nov 27, 2006 8:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Mine usually run about 1/4" deep for a bridge that's just over 5/16" tall |
|
| Author: | GregG [ Mon Nov 27, 2006 9:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I do mine about like John H. Greg |
|
| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Tue Nov 28, 2006 1:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
My bridges are around .350" high. My 1/8" wide saddle slot is routed to a depth of around .220" and I rout it with a 7* back angle. I have not yet completed one with the angled saddle but lots of the alpha builders like Paul Woolson, Mario, et.al. do this as well. Why...because it pushes the saddle in the direction that the strings want it to go. It also eliminates the lateral force that conspires to split the front of the bridge. One issue I've been trying to solve is with the saddle slot width. Using a 1/8" spiral bit on the laminate trimmer, I take about 4 passes to get to depth. As such, I always have a sloppy fit with a saddle blank and have now had to use oversize blanks and sand down to get a tight fit. I was wondering if there are spiral bits available that are slightly under 1/8" with the idea that it could ultimately produce the proper width for a 1/8" saddle blank. I have lots of 1/8" blanks and would like to be able to use them. |
|
| Author: | Martin Turner [ Tue Nov 28, 2006 7:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
JJ, you could try one less pass with the router bit and then sand out the slot to a tight fit. I use a straight cutter and then if the fit is too tight I run a cabinet scraper with wet and dry wrapped around it through the slot a few times until I get a tight fit with the saddle. |
|
| Author: | John How [ Tue Nov 28, 2006 7:28 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I use a laminate trimmer (PC) and a 1/4" shank bit with a 1/8" 2 flute spiral cutter (don't remember if it's up or down cut) and make the 1/4" deep cut all in one pass. Actually I go down and back but without adjusting the bit depth and that is it. I get a nice tight fit, in fact often I have to slightly sand the saddle thickness to get it into the slot. JJ, I don't know what kind of guide you are using, I think you've seen mine, I try to make sure that I apply pressure to the router in such a way as to keep it tight against the same side of the guide in both directions ensuring that it follows the exact same path down the guide as back. I would think your laminate trimmer should be able to make this cut all in one pass and that should tighten things up. |
|
| Page 1 of 1 | All times are UTC - 5 hours |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/ |
|